a
Trip to Los Cabos
December 2025
by Michael McCay, Travel Advisor
After switching gears career-wise and getting into the travel game, I also decided that I'd pick back up a former hobby of writing a
travelogue
of my tourist exploits. My first one will be on my trip to
Baja California Sur
in December 2025. I had a few spare days, while realizing that a quick "status run" flight could get me Silver status
in the
Alaska Airlines Atmos Rewards program. I just joined the program this year, after over 20 years with British Airways. BA has never made it easy to redeem for award flights, and this past year has seen a massive reshuffling of goalposts, making it more difficult to achieve elite status and downgrading the value of their award currency known as Avios. With Silver status on Alaska, I will have Ruby status
on all oneworld partners including American and Iberia, getting me:
- Extra free baggage, as an extra piece and/or extra weight up to 32 kg/70 lbs.
- Advance seat booking, possibly including premium economy or exit rows
- Priority boarding (admittedly not really a big deal)
- Priority line at check-in (this can be a huge timesaver on international flights)
- Faster accrual of award points
- Occasional free upgrade (it's happened exactly once in my life but one can keep wishing)
So that, combined with the fact that I always like to explore new places, made a good argument for packing up and getting away for eight days.
Having just met my spending target on my new Atmos Summit card, I not only had plenty of points, but also a 25,000-point companion certificate
for Iña to join me on the trip. One advantage of the Alaska Atmos program, uncommon but not unheard of elsewhere in the industry, is that you can accrue status points even on award flights. While as a general rule I always fly economy, sometimes you find some really good deals on business or first class, when there are enough seats available in those classes. So in this case, we were able to book two round-trip itineraries in a higher class while leaving most of our point balance intact, for just over $150 per person. We could have spent even less on a direct flight, but that would have meant dealing with the shitshow that is LAX and also, as a points run, four legs are better than two.
An advantage that Ontario airport has over LAX is a
Priority Pass lounge, which I have free access to as one of the perks of my Capital One VentureX card. In comparison, for someone like me, LAX has zero options as far as lounges go.
As it turned out, our flight from Phoenix to San José del Cabo was delayed due to equipment issues. Fortunately we were eligible to visit AA's Admiral's Club
and thus avoided a long and hungry wait somewhere in the terminal. When we finally arrived at San José del Cabo airport nearly three hours later than scheduled, we were ready to just get checked into the hotel, get a drink and a bite to eat, and let the relaxation begin. Unfortunately, it would prove to be
a bit more complicated…
Arrival at San José del Cabo
In the arrival hall and baggage claim, there are a series of counters where those with car rental reservations or needs can check in with their preferred vendors. In our case with Sixt, there was no such counter. No problem I figured, there will be something after clearing customs, so after collecting our bags, filling in an immigration form and checking out with Mexican immigration, we headed for the exit door. What awaited on the other side of that door was a massive gauntlet of "helpers"
whose apparent purpose in life is to get you to
commit to a timeshare presentation. I made the massive mistake
of informing one that I would be needing the shuttle to Sixt and got pulled into a long conversation regarding activities and other stuff that my helper informed us he was providing as a service to welcome tourists to the area. Once we got to the hotel and I was able to look at the information slip that he gave us, I realized that this was all a
scam
to get us into a timeshare presentation. After I told him via WhatsApp that I had better things to do on a vacation than sit through a boring presentation, he
upped the ante, even offering multiple activities and $100 towards my car rental. This whole thing was more surprising given that this seems to be done with the tacit approval
of the local airport authorities. There are literally
dozens
of these people, all getting in the way of people trying to exit the terminal, through two large halls, before finally exiting the building. Even on the outside you'll be accosted by any number of cowboy cab drivers hoping to scoop an easy fare but their game is a bit more obvious.
Recommendation: Ignore the swarming touts, walk quickly, don't engage. If you do actually want to get into a free activity or two and sit through a presentation, go for it, but don't put down anything as a deposit. In fact, from my own experience, you can probably negotiate a decent meal, two or three activities and maybe even a cash kickback if you bargain hard enough. Hopefully you won't have to resort to the same tactics as Captain Rex Kramer from the movie Airplane!
Getting the car from Sixt was another surreal experience. I booked this company specifically because they offered a decent rate and claimed to include the third-party liability insurance required by Mexican law. After a really long wait for their shuttle, we were finally taken to the off-site offices, where we were treated to high-pressure upsell part 2, where the rental agent demanded an insurance add-on that would nearly quadruple
the cost of the rental. After a drawn-out and acrimonious discussion we were finally on our way at the
original quoted price, in a basic Nissan Sentra.
Exploration time
We divided our eight-day sojourn into two phases. We're really not the type to go for luxury travel. The most important amenity for us is an en suite bathroom, anything beyond that is a bonus. Our first four nights would be spent at Hotel Los Patios, on the highway from San José del Cabo to Cabo San Lucas, conveniently located near the local Costco. I purposely chose something that was not part of a global chain, looking for something with a bit more local flavor. And we weren't disappointed! We got a decent-sized room with fridge, its own patio with a hammock, right next to the pool and outdoor bar. A hot breakfast was included, leading to my first-ever sample of marlin stew.
Our first activity was hiking with Enrique. He owns a good chunk of the cape's southernmost point at Land's End, where a climb up some steep and rocky terrain is rewarded with views from a height of 135 meters (443 feet), of the wharf, surrounding beaches and the wide blue ocean. Enrique runs a dog rescue
on that very land, and your hiking companions will be those very dogs, along with any tourists that also show up for the hike. Enrique gives a fascinating and entertaining talk on the history of the area, its unique geological features and the various peoples who have contributed to its character. Reservations are not required and no fees are charged, but a
voluntary donation is expected and appreciated
in order to help Enrique carry on his work. The gate opens every day except Saturday at 8 AM; all you have to do is show up!
Having a car affords a lot of
flexibility
in your itinerary and the places you can visit. In our case we headed north up the Pacific coast to the town of
Todos Santos. There is a thriving art community, varied eating establishments, souvenir shops
and its biggest claim to fame, the
Hotel California. While there's no indication that this place inspired any Eagles songs, the hotel itself is nice and has a nice patio to have a drink and rest after exploring the town.
Just north of Todos Santos we had the unique experience of witnessing the release of
newly hatched baby turtles
into the surf. The people at Tortugueros Las Playitas
go on nightly runs during egg-laying season to find any nests left behind by the mommy turtles, who lay the eggs and return to the sea, leaving the eggs to their own devices. The
Tortugueros
improve the outcome of this endangered species by bringing the eggs to their beachside greenhouse, where they can
incubate under better conditions
versus just being exposed to the elements. Every day as new turtles hatch, they are
brought to the waterside at sundown. Once the sun has gone, their predators have gone as well, allowing them safe access to their new home. The hatching begins in December
and we were fortunate enough to be there for the first hatchlings.
Our next excursion by car took us to
Cabo Pulmo, an aquatic national park
famous for its varied wildlife and crystal-clear waters.
There are a number of outfitters where you can reserve a boating excursion for scuba-diving and snorkeling. We opted to just show up at Playa el Arbolito, where snorkeling gear was available for rent. While poking around, I saw at least ten different species of fish
including a manta ray. Unfortunately, I neglected to charge the batteries for my underwater camera and so I don't have any pictures to show for it. Getting there was an
odyssey in itself. Google Maps shows a clearly demarcated highway that follows the coast up from San José del Cabo, but so much of the way was just a hilly and rocky dirt track. Do I have any regrets? Absolutely not!
Plenty of civilization along the way in case we did get into any trouble and we were treated to some
great views. After Cabo Pulmo we got a bite to eat
further north in
Los Barriles, then enjoyed a nice drive back to Cabo San Lucas along highway 1.
Another day, another adventure! This time we headed back up highway 1, but this time went left up into the mountains. Our first stop was at
Cañón de la Zorra, where a brief but steep hike was rewarded with an oasis pool fed by a waterfall. We had an enjoyable dip in this idyllic spa, where the fish would swim up to nibble at your feet
for a bit of exfoliation at no extra charge! With our feet duly stripped of dead skin cells, we hiked back to the car and drove to
Rancho Santa Rita and its thermal baths. A very rustic location, but well-appointed
with lounges, bathrooms, even barbecues, tables and camping areas. Being within a
national reserve, you pay the park fee along with entrance at either place, but if you visit both places in the same day, the park fee only applies once.
So much relaxation brings out the hunger, so on our way back out through the village of Santiago, we had a nice meal at the Palomar
hotel and restaurant. If you decide to visit, bring cash as they
don't take credit cards. Driving back to the hotel along highway 1, we discovered that it was the feast day of Our Lady of Guadalupe, with hundreds of pilgrims
fulfilling their holy obligation of walking to the
sanctuary
that bears her name.
For the second half of our stay, we decided to try out accommodations that were a little
more on the opulent side, but again, something that is not part of a multinational chain. In this case we settled on Club Regina, right on the coast, towards San José del Cabo. Our check-in came with a couple of surprises. One I guess is a bit inevitable, with the resort being built into the side of a mountain. All of the accommodations are accessed by stairs or inclined pathways, such that the only vehicles that can approach the rooms are electric- and gasoline-powered carts, so you'll either need to walk or get someone to drive you from place to place. Fortunately a cart is a mere phone call away for those times you need to move your luggage or shopping in, and for the rest of the time, walking to and from the pool is great exercise.
Much like our arrival in BCS, at our arrival at this hotel was less than optimal. We rolled up after a long day of exploring and hiking, and were looking forward to just getting to our room and relaxing. As timeshares are a big part of their business model, in hindsight what happened next I guess was inevitable. We started to get the hard sell
on the timeshare session, held right there at the hotel. Just wanting the interrogation to be over with, we agreed and finally were loaded onto a cart with our luggage to be delivered to our suite. And sweet it was, with a separate bedroom and bathroom, personal jacuzzi, full kitchen and a balcony from which you could watch the whales swimming by.
As for the presentation, it went pretty much as expected. A friendly saleswoman took us to breakfast, then walked us through the presentation and pricing. I would say that if you know what sort of travel you like, and think that's what you'll be doing for the next
15 or 30 years, what they are offering could certainly be better than just winging it every time you want to get away for a while. Those who know me know that's not really my style
though, as I like to create my own itineraries and go for
experiences over comfort, so I don't see myself ever buying into one. We told the saleswoman as much, and to our relief, she seemed to accept it and went to fetch someone for us to give our final feedback to. It turns out that this person was not there for feedback, but to ratchet up the pressure on buying, putting an uncomfortable final note on the session and leaving a bad taste in our mouths. One revealing data point that we were offered is that over half of presentation attendees end up purchasing. So you can see how highly motivated they are to get any and all into their sessions.
As promised, we were provided tickets on a plexiglass boat cruise, the sort that can be booked for $19 per person by yours truly. It was fun and interesting, and surprising how readily fish appeared under the boat. With a bit more time I would have preferred a boat that went all the way around the point and provided the opportunity to snorkel or lunch on a beach. They apparently make their money from photo packages, as the ones that we were offered ranged from $38 for a single photo
(for that same money two people can actually take the boat ride), to
$138 for all of the pictures taken (i.e. seven passengers' worth).
I spent the remaining time in BCS learning a thing or two about just how to chill out, spending a bit of time by the pool reading and availing of happy-hour margaritas. What particularly struck me about our resort was how quiet
it was, especially after the sun went down. In spite of all of the fellow resort-goers, the sound heard most was the
crashing of the waves
on the rocky beach below. I could certainly get used to that lifestyle!
But all good things must come to an end. With plenty of time before our afternoon flight, we headed to the airport, returned our car to the surly employees at Sixt, and settled in at the
airport lounge. Transiting through Phoenix so late in the day, we were lucky enough to get to use our once-yearly access to the Chase Sapphire lounge
in terminal 4. Apparently the draw is more for the
quality of the food
than for the relaxing atmosphere, but I did manage to sample most of their fare while seated at our small table next to the bar.
Final thoughts
- While I'd never expect a cheap roadside taco stand to take credit cards, I was a little surprised by the number of establishments charging tourist prices that would only take cash.
- My other surprise was how ubiquitous the U.S. dollar
was, a thousand miles from the border. In fact, if you're bringing cash in,
no need to exchange it
down there as far as I can tell. You will however want to verify that they are using a competitive exchange rate. I actually came across situations where it was cheaper to pay in dollars versus pesos, so don't be shy about pulling out the greenbacks when it suits you.
- Rather than carrying large wads of cash, I prefer to use an ATM card, pulling out money only as I need it. Pretty much any supermarket will have ATMs from various banks. Don't be afraid to cancel a transaction and try the ATM next to it
if their fees are abusive. I was able to find ATMs run by Santander and HBSC whose fees were
under $5.
- When using a credit or ATM card, whenever offered the opportunity to be charged in dollars versus the local currency, no matter where you are in the world, always go with the local currency. Doing otherwise simply means more money for the banks and less for you.
- Definitely consider possible costs of third-party liability insurance
in your choice of car rental before committing. There is no reason why (other than a blatant bait-and-switch) for companies not to quote this up front, if they're going to then tell you that it's 100% necessary. By all means
call them
and ask if these potential costs are not made clear.
- Rent a car with a bit of ground clearance, even if you never plan to go off-road. Massive speed bumps are installed in the unlikeliest of places, and even easing over them would sometimes cause our Nissan Sentra to scrape a little going over. A cheap crossover would have definitely served us better. A good approach is to follow drivers who know what they're doing at a prudent distance, as you'll see them dealing with surprise speed bumps, potholes or random rocks before they take you by surprise.
- Be ready for the onslaught of timeshare touts, and as Nancy would say, "just say no." Unless you find the free breakfast and activities a good value in exchange for three hours of your life, in which case, go for it.
Pictures, you say? Click here:
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If you're in BCS or planning to go soon and want to take part in the same adventures that I did, book them here!:
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